YANK SING You can nibble your way through dozens of dishes at Yank Sing and never come across a har gau or a siu mai. On any given day, you'll find up to 80 different items circulating on the various carts. Eventually you'll see the shrimp and pork dumplings, but no other place offers the variety. The "creative collection" might include the likes of chicken curry in an avocado half with Parmesan cheese. The business has been in the Chan family since 1958, but the Rincon Center restaurant opened only a few years ago (the handsome rooms will seat up 500 people). There's another location on Stevenson.

Cuisine: Chinese (dim sum)
Specialties: "Creative collection" of dim sum; barbecued pork buns; chicken lotus pan-fried cakes; Peking duck; custard tart.
Seats: 200 (weekdays); 500 (weekends)
Prices: $3.50 - $8
Noise: ۩ ۩ ۩ ۩
Park: Validated parking in Rincon Center garage
Vitals: 101 Spear St. (between Mission and Howard), San Francisco; (415) 957-9300. Lunch daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Also at 49 Stevenson St. (between First and Second streets).

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